Grey Nomads in Training

Camp at Malcolm Dam

We met our travelling companions in Kalgoorlie, where we had a pub lunch to discuss final plans before hitting the road. While we were in Kal we had another look at the Super Pit where they were blasting. That turned out to be quite anticlimactic. Our journey began with a drive by Ora Banda, where we were truly sad that the pub had burnt down, only a few months ago. We had a look at the abandoned town - Siberia where we watered the bougainvillea, which was planted by a mother for her stillborn son in 1902.

We set up in the dark at Goongarrie Station and camped our first night. We stayed near the old shearers quarters where we could use the toilet and shower. The next morning we went for a walk, looking at the old homestead and other remains. The 100,686ha station is 90km north of Kalgoorlie.

Willie is on guard

From there we took an off-road track (May or may not have been a short cut) along the train line towards Kookinye. Niagara Dam was our lunch spot for the day. There was only a drop of water in the dam, however it was an impressive structure built in the 1890’s. The dam was supposed to provide water for the nearby town of Niagara, however in the time it was built other water sources were found.

At the Grand Hotel Kookinye we were keen for one off the wood, but we had a hard time getting past the sturdy four-legged gate-keeper. The town is pretty much a ghost town with travellers stopping by the pub. The horse has been hanging out there for about six years and he has quite the character, originally being a race horse.

Remains of Gwalia

There was time for a quick look at the Gwalia Museum before we headed to Malcolm Dam to set up camp before dark. We saw lots of roaming animals near camp including cows and camels! The next morning we headed back to Gwalia to look through the old townsite, we were also keen to go back for a coffee and cake from the shop that was closed the day before. We spent time looking at the remains of the town, learning about its history. 

We had our coffee sitting in the veranda of Hoover House overlooking the mine that still operates today. Underground mining began in 1873 and continued until 1963 when the town was mostly abandoned, mining has stopped and started over the years and St Barbara currently run operation. The mine was first managed by Herbert Hoover, who later became the 31st President of the United States.

Storms rolling over Lake Ballard

On our way to Lake Ballard we stopped at Granite Creek for lunch. There we walked along the river bed looking at different pieces of quartz. Snake Hill offered us a great view of Lake Ballard and the storm rolling in. As we pulled up to our camp spot the rain began to fall so we were quick to set up before we were drenched. Artist Antony Gormley installed 51 sculptures over an area of 10 square kilometres in 2013.

After we got the fire going we wondered over to the lake and then slipped our way to the closest statue in the mud. We sloshed around the mud with child-like joy, not thinking too much about how to clean ourselves off before bed. That night we watched a Goldfields storm roll in and fortunately we were left unscathed.

Some puddles to splash in!

The next morning we made way towards Mt Elvire Homestead stopping at Ularring Rock for a walk and a few abandoned towns on the way. John Forrest passed through the area in 1869 and named Mt Elvire after his wife. It was a fun little off-road track that slowly climbed towards the top. From there we made our way to the next camp stop via Southern Cross for a fuel stop. We rolled in to Baladjie Rock and set up camp before the sun set.

This was probably the coldest spot and the next morning we were forced to explore on foot as we waited for our awnings to defrost (they were actually frozen). We climbed the mighty rock which overlooked farmland and salt lakes before packing up and moving on to Kellerberrin, our final destination. On our way we checked out the mine at Westonia and had lunch at the Ettamogah Pub (not so much on the way). We stayed at Keller two nights to watch some dirt track speedway action.

Walking back down Ularring Rock (would not recommend Ugg boots)